BMC Youth Climbing Series

Saturdays competition was a great success with a total of 51 competitors entering.

A range of exciting new volumes added interest to the routes and made sure Foundry regulars didn't have the advantage of familiarity. Infact it wasn't untill Jai Burrow sucesfully mastered the red volumes on line 5 for the 8-10 Girls/Boys, that anyone managed to read the way the route was intended to be climbed.

As the final round for the Peak Area, for several categories this was the decider of who would compete in the final at The Westway in London. For the 11-13 Boys there were three people in fierce competition for just 2 places, with Finn McKay narrowly missing out after falling on the final route up purple on line E of the main wall.

It's great to see several of the Foundry Academy (FA) members achieving top scores in the competition and The Academy as a whole winning more gongs than any other local team.

The following Finalists will be representing The Peak Area in London on the 20th June
Girls 8-10 - Emily Allen, Mary Clerkin (FA), Dana Windle (FA)
Boys 8-10 - Jai Burrow, Thomas Lee, Harry Sharrock
Girls 11-13 - Naomi Tilley, Nat Graham, Bethany Hoyland (FA)
Boys 11-13 - Jack Shaw (FA), Billy Ridal, Jake Beech (FA)
Girls 14-16 - Alice Waterhouse (FA), Sarah Pashley, Ailsa Graham
Boys 14-16 - Edd Mowbray, Oliver Groundsell, Ben Meakin
A full list of results is available from The BMC

New Volumes

In the last two weeks we have a had a total re-set of the Livingstone and Vertical walls, plus new routes have also gone up in both The Furnace and on the Main Wall. So lots of new routes to try when the (inevitable) rain drives you back inside.

In place of the popular jamming crack, the Vertical Wall now boasts an impressive layback and chimney.

The Main Wall now has a couple of massive volumes at the base of the lefthand overhang, creating a new challenge for climbing up to the first clip.

New problems have also been set on The Wave, giving you something fresh to try when taking advantage of our off peak bouldering rate for a lunchtime session.

BMC Youth Climbing Series - Routesetting

Saturday 25th April The Foundry will be hosting the final round of the Peak Area BMC Youth Climbing Series (which replaces the BRYCCs). In anticipation of this event we will be doing routesetting throughout the coming week on varous walls around the climbing centre.

The Foundry will be open to the public on the 25th, but access to some walls (and especially the Wave) will be restricted at times. To reflect this entry will be reduced to just £4 for adults (£3 for students).

Route Setting Over the Next Week...

Rob will be resetting most of the top rope walls over the next few days, things should return to normal for the weekend, with a furnace reset next week.

The giant crack line will be taken down, service, and place back on the wall for more cracking action!

BMC Leading Ladder Final

Saturday was a busy day at the Foundry, as the centre hosted the BMC Leading Ladder Final.

The level of climbing was impressive across each of the Recreational, Improver and Elite categories.

Highlight of the day came when Jonathan Stocking came close to flashing the hard-as-nails 8b right up the middle of the main wall - coming off trying to manoeuvre up the tufa on the head wall.

The day ended on a spectacular high, as Tara Hayes and Sarah Pashley competed in a superfinal for the female improver under 16's category.

Both girls showed some amazing skills on the 7a+ on the left of the main wall - matching on tiny crimps and working through some really shouldery moves - each managing to reach the same big pinch two thirds up the route. A tie was declared after both Tara and Sarah had dazzled a crowd of climbers of all levels.

Special thanks must be given first of all to the BMC for running the successful leading ladder competition, second, to all of the top climbers who competed, providing a greatly entertaining day for all who were spectating.

Routesetters Rob Napier and Dan Walker set some tough and engaging routes, and worked hard in the weeks running up to the final.

Finally, thanks to all the Foundry staff (Karl, Joe, Tim and Jen), who, lead by Manager Neil Bentley, manned the centre on such a busy day.

Photography by Tom Napier © 2009

Seasonal Access Restrictions

Information taken from the BMC'c Peak Access Team (6/4/09).
Please be aware that things can change very quickly so always be guided by notices on site, which will inevitably be more up to date.

Stannage - no current restrictions but Ring Ouzels are likely to start nesting at any time

Millstone - currently no restrictions

Ravensdale - Medusa and immediatly adjacent routes closed

Roaches / Hen Cloud - Restrictions signed on site.

Moscar Estate - This covers Derwent Edge, Bamford Edge and the northen part of Stannage (Public Rights of Way are not affected).
Friday 15 May to Friday 29 May (inclusive) - closed
Monday 1 June to Friday 5 June (inclusive) - closed
Monday 8 June to Friday 12 June (inclusive) - closed
Monday 15 June to Wednesday 17 June (inclusive) - closed
Closures notified under s22 on the CRoW Act (2000)
This is a grouse moor and there is an all year restriction in force on dogs at all times.

The major problem for land managers, wildlife and livestock at this time of year is dogs off the lead. Dogs have to be under control on public rights of way, and on a two metre lead between 1 March and 31 July on the moor, or when in the vicinity of livestock. If you do take your dog to the crag, or bouldering, legally it must be kept on a two metre lead. Sometimes the simplest option is not to take the dog.

The volunteers working for the Peak Access Team put a great deal of time and effort into securing access. Please do not jepodise this by ignoring restrictions, especially as there is no sortage of unaffected local climbing.

BMC Leading Ladder Results...

The BMC Leading Ladder Results are up on the Crag X web site!

CLICK HERE for the results.

Saturday 4th April - BMC Leading Ladder

The Foundry is looking forward to hosting the final of the BMC Leading Ladder tomorrow.


All routes in the Furnace and on the Main leading wall will be closed to the public during the event.

Top Rope lines and bouldering will be unaffected by the competition and open as normal.

All this week we have been setting new lead routes with grades ranging from 6a to 8b ready for the competition. These will of course reman in place after the weekend, so even if you didn't reach the final (or possibly didn't even enter the event) you can still test yourself out on them.

Resetting All This Week..

Rob and Dan will be resetting the Furnace and Main Wall all this week in preparation for the BMC Leading Ladder Finial on Sat 4th April. To find out what's open to give us a ring on 0114 279 6331

It's a cinch

NEW IN! The Trango Cinch is another 'autoblocking' belay device a bit like the GriGri. It's considerably lighter in the hand than its competitors although sadly no lighter on the wallet and it comes in a lovely green colour.

Core red point winner!

The winner of the Core finger board is Ed Brown whose name was randomly picked from those who successfully redpointed the green 7c. No one red pointed the pink 8a/+. Hope you all had a good time trying the routes. Next time we will set some lower grade routes to give more climbers the opportunity to win the prize!

BMC Leading Ladder Final - April 4th

This event will have climbers from all over the country testing their leading skills on 5 different routes for each of the 3 categories. The Main wall and Furnace will be open to competitors only on this day. The Foundry will open for registration at 9am
The 3 categories are Improver doing 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6b+, 6c. Recreational doing 6b+, 6c, 7a, 7b, 7c and Elite doing 7a, 7b, 7c, 8a, 8b. There will be 15 routes in total so two of 6b+, 6c, 7a, 7b and 7c. There will be prizes for top 3 in each category male/female and under 16 m/f.

Easter and Summer Opening Times

Of course some of you will have been climbing outside all winter, but as the hour changes and the temperatures warm up an increasing number of our regulars head outside to climb on real rock. So it's that time of year when we switch to shorter summer opening times.

From Easter (11th April) The Foundry will close at 6pm on weekend evenings.
We will still open at 10am 7 days a week and close at 10pm on weekday evenings.

Easter Weekend
Good Friday: 10am-8pm
Saturday/Sunday: 10am-6pm
Easter Monday: 10am-8pm

Core Climbing Redpoint Challenge.......4 Days Left!!

You may already be aware of, and be embroiled in the torturous ordeal of Redpointing already!.....

But heres a quick reminder that you have until this Thursday (19th March 2009) to get your successful redpoint completed and your entry in, to be entered in to the draw to win a Core Climbing Fingerboard!!

The Two Routes can be found on the Fivet Ten Prow; a 7b+/7c and a 8a/8a+ using exclusively Core Climbing Holds ( http://www.coreclimbing.co.uk/ )

(If you normally easily red point above the 7c/+ level the you will be expected to try the harder route in order to be eligable to claim a prize!)

For more information, please ask at reception.....Good Luck!!

Now thats Light!!

CragX now have the new DMM Phantom Screwgate in stock. Weighing in at an amazing 41g they are the lightest screwgate ever made!

Only £10 each from Cragx.com or instore at CragX Foundry Shop.

Free tea from Crag x...

Evolv Boot Demo

5pm-9.30pm, Wednesday 11th March

This is your chance to “try before you buy” and get your feet in a pair of Evolv climbing shoes. It’s free to try the shoes, just pay your normal fee to climb then borrow pair from the stand in the main climbing hall.

Evolv climbing shoes are available from CragX and everyone who tries a pair on the night will be entered into a FREE raffle to win a pair.

Sheffield Universities Varsity Competition

There was a great atmosphere on the bouldering wall as Sheffield and Hallam fought to win this years competition. Sheffield certainly had more climbers but unfortunatly for them the winners were decided by the combined scored from the top 3 men and top female - this made Hallam the winners by a mere 6 points!

Hallam University - 715 points
University of Sheffield - 709 points

I Turton (H) - 190 - joint top male
E Feehally (S) - 190 - joint top male
T Arnold (S) - 187
A Harrison (H) - 181
K Whittakey (HF) - 172 - joint top female
R Cowie - (SF) - 172 - joint top female
J Grondowski (H) - 172
D Waters (S) - 160
J Lynch (H) - 143
R Armour (H) - 138
K Piddock (SF) - 136
M Boden (S) - 136
J Studden (HF) - 134
S Bennett (S) - 130
J Nunn (H) - 129
O Burrows (S) - 128
T Dixon (S) - 122
R Snowden (SF) - 120
J Powell (S) - 118
A Saul (S) - 118
M Gee (S) - 118
N Weston (S) - 108
M Watson (S) - 106
J Rous (S) - 97
E moorhouse (H) - 77
R Hulme (S) - 66
F Prall (S) - 52
L Andrew (H) - 46

The overall top scoring male/female win a 1 months Foundry Membership - these can be collected from Reception.

Varsity bouldering comp 4th March 2-4.30pm

Yes, its the Sheffield University v Sheffield Hallam varsity bouldering comp here on Wednesday afternoon. There will be 20 new problems set by Rob on the wave. bleaustone wall, traing board and volumes in the main wall. See you here at 2pm !

Foundry Academy Friendly comp!

On Saturday 30 young climbers competed at the first Foundry Academy friendly. After having 5 problems and a route to try the final scores are below. It was a good comp, everyone looked like they were enjoying the great problems and routes set by Rob Napier (our resident brilliant setter!) and Tim Hill (usually seen managing the cafe) who is also a dab hand at setting. Well done to all of you who took part and the parents who helped out. Good luck to all of you intending to do the forthcoming BRYCS series.

The maximum score possible was 150.
7-10 years
1MARY CLERKIN 132
2ABBIE RIVETT 119
3BETH JENNINGS 115
4DANIELLE HOYLAND 111
5PIPPA WATKIN 110
6DANA WINDLE 104
6LUCY CLARKSON 104
8 NIAMH FARRELL 71

11-14 years
1 JAKE BEECH 150
2 JACK SHAW 147
3 BETH HOYLAND 118
4 PAREESA TAI 84
5 ABBIE HEATH 77
6 JAKE JAMES 59
7 DANIELLE DUROED 52
8 ISABELLE COTTYN 45
8 JACK GOULD 45
10 ELLA FARRELL 39
10 MEG HARVEY 39

B3
1 ALEX LEONARD 122
2 ED MORRIS 120
3 JOSH FORDE 118
4 JOE BROADHEAD 114
5 JON HICKSON 106
6 OWEN BELLWOOD 105
7 DAN LEICESTER 82
8 ROB COOK 72

G3
JESSICA ATKIN 101
HOLLY MURRAY 101