Welcome to The Foundry Blog....

Opening its doors back in 1991, The Foundry has been at the heart of the Sheffield and UK climbing scenes ever since. Almost two decades on, the centre continues to provide a world class environment for climbers, whether you're new to the sport or about to tick your first Font 8b!

The blog will keep you up to date with the activity and achievements that are going on in and around The Foundry.

Hope to see you soon! - Neil Bentley (Centre Manager)

Thursday, 30 July 2009

NEW DMM Torque Nuts have arrived!

For years we have refused to stock 'sets' of hexes because the pack always included a number of smaller sizes that overlapped with conventional nuts. We found most customers only wanted hexes that were bigger than the wired nuts, so although we stocked all sizes we felt the sets encouraged beginners to buy gear they were unlikely to want or need in the long term.

DMM are the first manufacturer to have thought this through so we are happy to finally be able to break our own rule. We now stock the superb new DMM Torque nuts, very light, very colourful very effective and with an extendible sling. They suit from a thin hand to a standard fist crack - available loose or as a complete set of 4.

Pull Up Challenge Prizewinners



Rich Ames managed an impressive 38 pullups and Diane Merrick still had enough "pull" in her arms after coming third in the British Bouldering Championships to manage 27. Both of them will receive the prize of a Beastmaker 2000.

Check your mail! The three "lucky dip" winners each of which win a £10 CragX voucher have been notified by email.

Tuesday, 28 July 2009

Five Ten V10 replacement


It looks as though 5.10 have finally brought out a direct replacement of the much-loved V10 slipper. The new shoe is being called the 5.10 Team and it pretty much like a V10 with an single velcro strap added.

You might be thinking this isn't news - pictures of it have been around on the forums for a while now but I've learnt not to judge a rock shoe until I've had it on my foot. A shoe that looks great in a picture can turn out to be terrible. Luckily, I had the chance to try them on at the Outdoor Show in Friedrichshafen.

So, what can I tell you, having tried it on a couple of times? The Team does seem to be built on the same last shape as the V10 and Dragon which will please a lot of people. It felt pretty good to me pulling it on for the first time. I'd guess it might be a little softer out of the box than the V10 but I could be wrong – I haven't worn any V10s for quite a while now. It has the new Mystique rubber that is on the Project but in a sensible thickness and with the usual horseshoe midsole so it isn't as crazily soft as the Project. The velcro strap should work well but does mean that this is not going to be priced like slippers of old – expect to pay top wack for this one. Lastly, the tow rubber is proper rubber, not stealth paint like the Jet7 but it does give a bit and is a sensible thickness so I doubt anyone will feel the need to take a razor to it.

There are lots of things that we won't know until these have got to the shops and on peoples feet in the real world (like how much they might stretch) but so far the Team seems to be the first real V10 replacement.

Five Ten are making a limited production run of these for this Autumn so we should get some in around September or October. They will be widely available in the UK in Spring 10.

Tuesday, 14 July 2009

Cliffhanger 2009

This was the third year CragX has been at Cliffhanger and thanks to the weather staying dry was the best attended yet. The DMM pull tester broke lots of karabiners, in a bid to demonstrate just how strong climbing gear actually is.

The new "Improved" pull up challenge using a Beastmaker 1000 certainly added interest to the competition. Winners will be notified by email once we have managed to enter you all onto the computer.

Summer Facelift



As usual we are taking advantage of the quiet summer days to give the Foundry a fresh coat of paint. Lovingly chosen by Jerry Moffatt himself, the front stairwell now boasts a new colour scheme.

Thursday, 9 July 2009

Foundry Academy Hits Headlines...

Foundry Academy gets national recognition for its fund raising event last weekend in the Telegraph Newspaper.

Wednesday, 8 July 2009

CragX Stocks Up On SALE Goodies...

The CragX stock rooms are full of SALE items to sell at cliffhanger this weekend!
CragX will be having a massive sale at Cliffhanger this year, here are a few of the deals to wet appetite for new kit!!!.....
AT LEAST 30% OFF MAMMUT ROPES


BLACK DIAMOND IMPACT PADS ONLY £65


CHEAP CHEAP HARDWARE DEALS


AND MANY MORE ON THE DAY....

Thursday, 2 July 2009

Pulling power


Alongside the CragX stand at Cliffhanger this year will be the world famous CragX Pull-Up Challenge.

Do you have the power to pull against the best in the UK?

This year we have teamed up with Beastmaker to bring you an improved pull-up bar. Can you guess what it is?

Monday, 29 June 2009

BMC Youth Final results

A difficult competition with a very high standard our finalists represented the Academy marvellously. A Team position of 4th and impressive places for all. No gongs this time but with this experience to draw from and feed back into the Academy I have no doubt there will be next year. Well done to you all.

Click Here for the results

By foundry Academy

Thursday, 25 June 2009

2007 Flood


It's now 2 years since staff members waded home through a flooded car park. For those who really can't remember that far back, 25th June 2007 was when Sheffield hit the national headlines with symbolic images of the tempory traffic lights on the Wicker being knocked over by flood waters.

Photo by Tom Briggs
Looking back into the
carpark from the road as we abandoned ship, the
fence in the rear conceals the building work were the flats now stand.





Immediatly behind the Furnace climbing wall is the River Don and at that time there was nothing to stop flood water from pouring into our courtyard.

Photo by Neil Bentley
Judging from the tide mark left by silt, flood water
reached around waist height in the carpark.




Compared to many local businesses, The Foundry escaped relatively lightly and thanks to an amazing effort by staff and volunteer climbers was only closed for 48 hours.

Photo by Ben Carpenter
Every rubber floor tile and all the foam mats had to be moved and
the old carpet torn out from underneath, so the floor could dry.


Tuesday, 23 June 2009

Lunchtime Climbing - just £4

For those living/working locally we are offering a special lunchtime entry rate of just £4. Valid from 12noon Monday-Friday and you must finish your session no later than 2pm.

This offer is not limited to just bouldering. Bring your harness (and rope?) and fit in a training session during your lunchbreak, leaving the summer evening free for outdoor adventures.

Friday, 19 June 2009

New Kids' Routes



Earlier in the week we had four new routes set around the vertical wall, using the popular volumes that were put up earlier in the year.

These routes are aimed mainly at smaller children, as some of the kids (especially in the Foundry Academy) need new challenges that will test something other than their reach.

Alice - Foundry Academy

Thursday, 18 June 2009

That Foundry Sound...


At last the Foundry has a new PA system in the main hall! 1000w
of pure music power! Nice one Jerry.

Tuesday, 16 June 2009

DMM HB Brass Offsets Now In CragX....


The HB Brass offset is a new brass mirco wire from DMM. Beautifully engineered, with the normal high end DMM finish, you can't help but want a set! A must for anyone heading to the slate this session.

More info Click Here.

Full Set: £65.00
To Buy Click Here

www.cragxclimbing.com

Tuesday, 2 June 2009

Cliffhanger 2009

The weekend of 11th-12th July Cliffhanger will be taking over Millhouses Park in Sheffield

There will be a wide range of free "come and try" activities, which makes this an ideal day out for kids of all ages. For those wanting retail therapy you can expect to find a wide range of exhibitors, which will of course include CragX.

For climbers the highlight of the event is probably the British Bouldering Championships, which are free to spectate. There will also be a Dyno Competition and CragX will once again be offering it's popular Pull up Challenge.

CragX has secured a number of "Show Specials", which include bouldering pads, ropes and cams.

The Real Thing here on DVD!

CragX has got an exclusive on SIGNED COPIESof the classic bouldering flick, The Real Thing, just released on DVD.

According to Tyler Landman it is "The original and still the best bouldering flm ever made." Released on VHS format in 1996 the award-wining movie The Real Thing was the first feature length bouldering movie and played a large part in the popularization of bouldering. Re-released on DVD format for the first time it now includes a bonus retrospective commentary from Ben and Jerry. 13 years on it still remains a classic.
It will be available in all good shops any day but only CragX has copies signed by Ben Moon and Jerry Moffat.

Wednesday, 27 May 2009

Bouldering circuits

Rob has set 3 new circuits have been set on the wave/bleaustone wall. Font 5a-6a, 6a-6c and 6c-7c+. 10 problems in each circuit.

Thursday, 21 May 2009

BMC update on access - 21/5/09

Information taken from the BMC Peak Access Team (21/5/09).
Please be aware tha
t things do change very quickly at this time of year so always be guided by notices on site, which will inevitably be more up to date.

Stanage, Burbage and Bamford Area - The only current restrictions are at Anniversary Arete and at the Popular End between Castle Butress and Physiology.

Ravensdale - Medusa and immediatly adjacent routes closed

Hen Cloud - Black Wall / Delstree area closed, low key signage is on site.

Moscar Estate - This covers Derwent Edge, Bamford Edge and the northern part of Stanage Edge. Public Rights of Way and concessionary paths above Stanage and along Derwent Edge are not affected. Access to permit climbing on Stanage Edge between Secret Stanage and Stanage End has been negotiated
Monday 8 June to Friday 12 June (inclusive) - closed
Monday 15 June to Wednesday 17 June (inclusive) - closed
Closures notified under s22 on the CRoW Act (2000)
This is a grouse moor and there is an all year restriction in force on dogs at all times.

The volunteers working for the Peak Access Team put a great deal of time and effort into securing access. Please do not jepodise this by ignoring restrictions, especially as there is no sortage of unaffected local climbing.

Monday, 18 May 2009

Wave Reset

As I type Rob is hard at it setting the right hand side of the Wave bouldering wall, it should be completed and fully open for climbing by this evening.

The left section of the Wave will be re-set tomorrow, giving you lots of new problems to look forward to if/when you get rained off over the Bank Holiday.

Bank Holiday Monday the centre will close at 8pm
Saturday and Sunday we will be open as normal, 10am-6pm

Tuesday, 5 May 2009

Running Shoe Sale!


All the running shoes in the CragX shop are now down to £45.00!!!

So get your self down to the store while stocks last.

WWW.CRAGXCLIMBING.COM